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University of California Press

About the Book

The food of Rome and its region, Lazio, is redolent of herbs, olive oil, ricotta, lamb, and pork. It is the food of ordinary, frugal people, yet it is a very modern cuisine in that it gives pride of place to the essential flavors of its ingredients. In this only English-language book to encompass the entire region, the award-winning author of Encyclopedia of Pasta, Oretta Zanini De Vita, offers a substantial and complex social history of Rome and Lazio through the story of its food. Including more than 250 authentic, easy-to-follow recipes, the author leads readers on an exhilarating journey from antiquity through the Middle Ages to the mid-twentieth century.

About the Author

Oretta Zanini De Vita is a distinguished Italian food historian. She is the author of more than forty books on Italian food and its traditions, including Encyclopedia of Pasta (UC Press).

Table of Contents

Foreword by Ernesto Di Renzo
Translator’s Preface by Maureen B. Fant
Acknowledgments

Introduction

The Agrarian Landscape of the Campagna Romana
The Tiber and Fish in Popular Cooking
Water and Aqueducts
Mills on the Tiber: Bread and Pasta in Rome
Rome and Its Gardens
Sheep, Shepherds, and the Pastoral Kitchen
Roads and Taverns
Fairs and Markets
Roman Carnival
The Jewish Kitchen of the Roman Ghetto
The Papal Table
Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli, Poet of the Roman Kitchen
Hollywood on the Tiber
Traditional Sweets
Olives
Etruscan Lands: Viterbo and Tuscia
Sabina, Land of Olive Trees and Hill Towns
From the Castelli to the Ciociaria
Buffalo Country: The Pontine Marshes
Coastal Lazio and the Sea
Recipes
Thoughts on the Interpretation of Italian Recipes
Primi piatti • First Courses
Secondi piatti • Main Dishes
Verdure e legumi • Vegetables and Legumes
Sfizi • Savories
Condimenti • Sauces and Condiments
Dolci • Sweets

Glossary of Terms and Ingredients
Notes
General Index
Recipe Index

Reviews

“Excellent, witty. . . . Not to be confused with your everyday cookbook. . . . It is a keeper for my own kitchen.”
A Traveler’s Library
“Oretta Zannini DeVita and her excellent, witty translator, Maureen B. Font, explore the growing of Italian food, fairs and festivals, laws about food, the origins of what we think of as Italian cuisine today and much more. . . . As for the traveler planning a trip to Italy, Popes, Peasants and Shepherds may just tempt you to resist the usual route of skipping from Rome to Florence or Venice while you explore the less touristy and very authentic Italian countryside, or seek out special Italian food festivals. Both the ‘Recipes and Lore’ will lure you to the area.”
A Traveler’s Library
"Immediately a standard work for reference and for use, one of the important books about Italian food."
The Art of Eating
"This superlative collaboration between author and translator has produced the very best kind of cookbook: authoritative but exciting, scholarly but racily written—everything the cook or scholar wants to know about the traditional food of the region around Rome.” —Paul Levy, editor of The Penguin Book of Food and Drink

“Oretta Zanini and Maureen Fant are the very two experts I would consult first with any question on Roman cuisine, and this product of their collaboration is as rich and complex as a classic coda alla vaccinara (their recipe for which happens to be delicious). The breadth of information presented here is impressive and the selection of recipes refreshingly authentic, including intestines, heart, sweetbreads, and other delicacies of the quinto quarto so often left out of books on Rome published outside of Italy. At a time when Tuscany and Sicily occupy so much space in our collective Italian fantasies, it’s a pleasure to have a definitive exploration of Roman cuisine to put on the shelf or bring into the kitchen.” —Mitchell Davis, The James Beard Foundation

"Zanini has written a fascinating profile of a region of Italy almost unknown to Americans--and that's strange because it's the region of the country’s best-known city, Rome. But Lazio and the Roman countryside remain a terra incognita despite their rich history and very rich culinary culture, all of which helped make Rome the center of the universe for many centuries and a place of endless enchantment to this day. Here are dishes that have traversed the ages and flavors that once beguiled Caesar just as they do modern tourists. Zanini provides astute analysis of how and why Romans and the people of Lazio eat what they do--and moreover, she gives us recipes so we can try them in our own kitchens." —Nancy Harmon Jenkins, author of The Essential Mediterranean: How Regional Cooks Transform Key Ingredients into the World’s Favorite Cuisines