Textiles were the second-most-traded commodity in all of world history, preceded only by grain. In the Ottoman Empire in particular, the sale and exchange of silks, cottons, and woolens generated an immense amount of revenue and touched every level of society, from rural women tending silkworms to pashas flaunting layers of watered camlet to merchants traveling to Mecca and beyond. Sea Change offers the first comprehensive history of the Ottoman textile sector, arguing that the trade's enduring success resulted from its openness to expertise and objects from far-flung locations. Amanda Phillips skillfully marries art history with social and economic history, integrating formal analysis of various textiles into wider discussions of how trade, technology, and migration impacted the production and consumption of textiles in the Mediterranean from around 1400 to 1800. Surveying a vast network of textile topographies that stretched from India to Italy and from Egypt to Iran, Sea Change illuminates often neglected aspects of material culture, showcasing the objects' ability to tell new kinds of stories.
Sea Change Ottoman Textiles between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean
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About the Book
Reviews
"Painstakingly researched and richly illustrated, this pioneering work presents some major insights into Ottoman textiles, showing how markets and manufacturers, not just patrons and sultans, influenced their production. This book is a powerful appeal to discard the belief that written sources tell the whole story: objects themselves have so much to teach us!"—Suraiya Faroqhi, author of Artisans of Empire: Crafts and Craftspeople under the Ottomans and A Cultural History of the Ottomans: The Imperial Elite and Its Artefacts"That [textiles’] significance is underestimated by westward-thinking art historians is a wide gap in scholarship, which "Sea Change" begins to fill with clear delineations of prose offering readers meticulous insight into the pragmatics of the textile craft and the inspirations of its creative flourishing across classes and cultures."
—Daily Sabah
"This book skillfully guides the reader on a journey into the long history of Ottoman textiles, considering magnificent, mundane, and rare artifacts. With an innovative emphasis on craft and a transnational perspective, Phillips reaches beyond the Ottomans' well-known relationship with Italy to investigate their connections with Iran, Egypt, Eastern Europe, and, most importantly, India, providing a wide-ranging analysis of Ottoman textile culture."—Giorgio Riello, Professor of Early Modern Global History, European University Institute
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments
Translations, Transliterations, and Terminologies
Introduction
PART 1
1. Technology, History, and Terminology, ca. 1200–1400
2. Weaving in Anatolia: International Styles and Local Production, 1390–1500
PART 2
3. Imperial Appetites, Shared Technologies, 1500–1650
4. Regulation and Contravention, 1500–1700
PART 3
5. Worlds of Goods: Consumption and Production, 1550–1750
6. Emulation, Imitation, and Novelty, 1700–1800
Conclusion
Appendix
Abbreviations
Glossary
Notes
Bibliography
List of Illustrations
Index
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