Herstory: Cookbooks by Women Authors

This weekend marks the one year anniversary of the largest single day protest in US history—the Women’s March—when on January 21, 2017, 4.2 million people marched across the US in more than 600 US cities, and from Antarctica to Zimbabwe, at least 261 more sister marches cropped up worldwide. To celebrate this pivotal protest, UC Press is highlighting titles across subjects as part of our Herstory series, with today’s focus on cookbooks by women authors. While just a preview of our publishing “herstory,” these titles showcase how women have shaped the culinary sphere all around the world.

Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness
By Joyce Goldstein with Dore Brown

In this authoritative and immensely readable insider’s account, celebrated cookbook author and former chef Joyce Goldstein traces the development of California cuisine from its formative years in the 1970s to 2000, when farm-to-table, foraging, and fusion cooking had become part of the national vocabulary. Interviews with almost two hundred chefs, purveyors, artisans, winemakers, and food writers bring to life an approach to cooking grounded in passion, bold innovation, and a dedication to “flavor first.”


The New Mediterranean Jewish Table: Old World Recipes for the Modern Home
By Joyce Goldstein

For thousands of years, the people of the Jewish Diaspora have carried their culinary traditions and kosher laws throughout the world. In the United States, this has resulted primarily in an Ashkenazi table of matzo ball soup and knishes, brisket and gefilte fish. But Joyce Goldstein is now expanding that menu with this comprehensive collection of over four hundred recipes from the kitchens of three Mediterranean Jewish cultures: the Sephardic, the Maghrebi, and the Mizrahi.


The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food from around the World
By Linda Lau Anusasananan

Veteran food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan opens the world of Hakka cooking to Western audiences in this fascinating chronicle that traces the rustic cuisine to its roots in a history of multiple migrations. Beginning in her grandmother’s kitchen in California, Anusasananan travels to her family’s home in China, and from there fans out to embrace Hakka cooking across the globe—including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Peru, and beyond.


La Cocina Mexicana: Many Cultures, One Cuisine
By Marilyn Tausend

After thirty years of leading culinary tours throughout Mexico, Marilyn Tausend teams up with Mexican chef and regional cooking authority Ricardo Muñoz Zurita to describe how the cultures of many profoundly different peoples combined to produce the unmistakable flavors of Mexican food. Weaving engrossing personal narrative with a broad selection of recipes, the authors show how the culinary heritage of indigenous groups, Europeans, and Africans coalesced into one of the world’s most celebrated cuisines.


The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia
By Darra Goldstein

Nestled in the Caucasus mountain range between the Black and Caspian seas, the Republic of Georgia is as beautiful as it is bountiful. The unique geography of the land, which includes both alpine and subtropical zones, has created an enviable culinary tradition. In The Georgian Feast, Darra Goldstein explores the rich and robust culture of Georgia and offers a variety of tempting recipes.



Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome to Lazio
By Oretta Zanini De Vita

The food of Rome and its region, Lazio, is redolent of herbs, olive oil, ricotta, lamb, and pork. It is the food of ordinary, frugal people, yet it is a very modern cuisine in that it gives pride of place to the essential flavors of its ingredients. In this only English-language book to encompass the entire region, the award-winning author of Encyclopedia of Pasta, Oretta Zanini De Vita, offers a substantial and complex social history of Rome and Lazio through the story of its food.



Breaking Bread: Recipes from Immigrant Kitchens
By Lynne C. Anderson

Through stories of hand-rolled pasta and homemade chutney, local markets and backyard gardens, and wild mushrooms and foraged grape leaves—this book recounts in loving detail the memories, recipes, and culinary traditions of people who have come to the United States from around the world. Chef and teacher Lynne Anderson has gone into immigrant kitchens and discovered the power of food to recall a lost world for those who have left much behind.



M. F. K. Fisher among Pots and Pans: Celebrating Her Kitchens
By Joan Reardon

From her very first book, Serve It Forth, M.F.K. Fisher wrote about her ideal kitchen. In her subsequent publications, she revisited the many kitchens she had known and the foods she savored in them to express her ideas about the art of eating. M.F.K. Fisher among the Pots and Pansinterspersed with recipes and richly illustrated with original watercolors, is a retrospective of Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher’s life as it unfolded in those homey settings—from Fisher’s childhood in Whittier, California, to the kitchens of Dijon, where she developed her taste for French foods and wines; from the idyllic kitchen at Le Paquis to the isolation of her home in Hemet, California; and finally to her last days in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

UC Press Interviews: Kate Marshall talks to Darra Goldstein

On Friday, May 4, Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture received the Best Publication Award at the James Beard Foundation Awards in New York, NY. The award was accepted by Darra Goldstein, Gastronomica’s founding editor and the Francis Christopher Oakley Third Century Professor of Russian at Williams College.

The Beard Awards is widely recognized within the food industry as the highest possible honor for culinary professionals and publishers in the United States. Dorothy Kalins, founding editor of Saveur, presented Gastronomica with the honor, stating:

“Since 2001, Gastronomica has proven that food can be the catalyst for meaningful and serious discussions about culture, history, literature, art, and politics.

Founding Editor Darra Goldstein has turned her enthusiasm for food into a substantive and intelligent publication that influences us all. In addition to editing Gastronomica, Darra is a Professor of Russian at Williams College.  She is a quintessential example of the diverse and unexpected personalities you’ll find talking about food Gastronomica, where poets, artists, professors, opinion makers, and pundits bring a stimulating breadth of perspectives to the table.
In our digital age of fleet tweets, trendy headlines, and the battle to grab readers’ attention, Gastronomica reminds us that curiosity, hard thought, and great writing are award-worthy values.”

The honor was shared with Food52.com, a web-based publication and food community started by Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs.

While this is the first such honor for Gastronomica, UC Press has had a long history of recognition at the Beard Awards, with past Beard winners including Food Politics by Marion Nestle, The Wines of Bordeaux by Clive Coates, My Bombay Kitchen by Niloufer Ichaporia King, and Encyclopedia of Pasta by Oretta De Vita Zanini, among other finalists.

Kate Marshall, Acquisitions Editor for Food and Agriculture, spoke with Darra Goldstein following the event.

KM: So, Darra, what’s it like to be honored by the Oscars of the food world?

DG: It’s wonderful that a niche publication like Gastronomica was recognized among all the big players in the field, and sharing the stage with so many talented food writers and chefs was thrilling. So I enjoyed the glamour of the evening, not to mention the champagne!

KM: Did you meet any food celebrities or influential folks at the JBFA gala?

DG: I drive my students crazy when I tell them we don’t have cable TV at home, so I never watch any of the food shows and don’t really follow celebrity. But I did talk to Andrew Zimmern — we’re both Vassar grads — and I was thrilled to see Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison (Gastronomica’s featuring him in the May issue). On the food writing side, it was great to spend time with personal icons like Claudia Roden and Betty Fussell.

KM: Gastronomica is one of our highest profile publications. Why do you think readers respond so strongly to the journal?

DG: For one thing, it’s gorgeous. Readers adore the covers, as well as the edgy artwork and photography inside. People also like Gastronomica’s wide-ranging content. As one friend said to me, each issue is idiosyncratic, unexpected, and intellectual — the material never gets stale. People really do want to think deeply about food these days, and Gastronomica offers some serious stuff without ever forgetting the pleasures of food.

KM: What other food publications do you admire and enjoy reading?

DG: All my favorite publications seem to have gone by the wayside. First Cuisine, then the original Eating Well, more recently Gourmet. There is some excellent food writing on Gilt Taste these days.

KM: Apart from the James Beard Award, what do you think are your biggest Gastronomica achievements over the past 12 years? Who are you most proud to have published?

DG: Gastronomica has received some wonderful recognition, including the Prix d’Or at the Gourmet Voice World Media Festival (2004), the UTNE Independent Press Award for Social/Cultural Coverage (2007), and the AAP/PSP PROSE award for Best Design in Print (2009). Last year it was named Best Food Magazine in the World at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris. But apart from these very public awards, I think Gastronomica’s greatest achievement has been to bridge the divide between academics and the food world, on the one hand bringing serious writing to the general public and on the other bringing a sense of aesthetics to the world of academic writing. The journal has also given the burgeoning field of food studies a distinctive voice and helped it gain legitimacy.

It’s hard to say what I’m most proud of because there have been so many terrific contributions over the years. I collected some of my favorites from the journal’s first decade in The Gastronomica Reader that UC Press published in 2011. I’m proud to have published poets like Louise Glück and Eamon Grennan, photographer-artists like Pinar Yolacan and Hans Gissinger, and writers like Paul Russell and Paul Greenberg. I’m especially happy to have launched the writing careers of many young people by giving them their first publication in Gastronomica.

A Winning Season at UC Press

Over the past month, UC Press authors and publications have been honored with a series of outstanding awards and nominations. Read more about the honors they’ve received:

Daniel Callahan, Matteo Ricci, S.J. Award
Daniel Callahan, Director of the International Program at the Hastings Center and Senior Fellow at Harvard Medical School, was presented with the first Matteo Ricci, S.J. Award in recognition of his contributions to Christian culture by the editors of America magazine. Callahan is the author of What Price Better Health?

Mary Garrard, Mississippi Institute of Arts and Letters (MIAL) Lifetime Achievement Award
The MIAL Board of Governors has given a special Lifetime Achievement Award to Dr. Mary Garrard, Professor Emerita of Art History, American University, for her astounding body of scholarship in art history, particularly in groundbreaking feminist art history. A native of Indianola, Mississippi, Dr. Garrard is the author of numerous articles on aspects of Michelangelo, Raphael, and Leonardo da Vinci, among others. Her book, Artemisia Gentileschi is widely acknowledged as a major contribution to the field. UC Press recently published her book Brunelleschi’s Egg: Nature, Art, and Gender in Renaissance Italy.

Gastronomica, Darra Goldstein, ed., Gourmand Award for Best Food Magazine in the World
Gastronomica was named “Best Food Magazine in the World” at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris. The Gourmand Awards were founded in 1995 by Edouard Cointreau to honor the best food and wine books in the world and to increase knowledge and respect for food and wine culture.

Paul Linde, 2011 Media Award by NCPS (Northern California Psychiatric Society)
The Media Award, given to a journalist who brings public attention to issues related to mental health will be presented to Paul Linde, MD for his book Danger to Self, documenting the world of a psychiatric emergency room by JoEllen Brainin-Rodriguez, MD.

Richard O. Moore, Finalist, Northern California Book Award in Poetry
Moore’s Writing the Silences has been nominated for the Northern California Book Award in Poetry as one of the best works by a northern California author published in 2010. The Northern California Book Awards were established by the Northern California Book Reviewers (NCBR) in 1981 to honor the work of writers and recognize exceptional service in the field of literature in northern California.

Rebecca Solnit, Finalist, Northern California Book Award in Creative Nonfiction
Solnit’s Infinite City: A San Francisco Atlas has been nominated for the Northern California Book Award in Creative Nonfiction as one of the best works by a northern California author published in 2010.

Mark di Suvero, 2010 National Medal of Arts
President Obama awarded Mark di Suvero the 2010 National Medal of Arts for his achievements as one of the most prominent American artists to emerge from the Abstract Expressionist era. Exhibited throughout the world, Mr. di Suvero’s exemplary sculptures depict a strong political and social vision, demonstrating the power of the arts to improve our world. UC Press published di Suvero’s Dreambook in 2008.

Food for Thought: Podcast with Darra Goldstein

Darra GoldsteinWhile in town for the keynote panel at the Food Justice conference in Eugene, Oregon, Gastronomica founding editor Darra Goldstein was interviewed by Food for Thought, a program dedicated to educating the public about local and global food issues on KLCC, Eugene’s NPR affiliate.

Gastronomica ReaderGoldstein spoke with the show’s hosts about the journey of creating Gastronomica and building the field of Food Studies. She describes what makes the journal different from other food writing—how it goes beyond talking about the lifestyle aspects of food to investigate the darker side of food and its pressing issues in the 21st century.

Listen to the podcast to hear Goldstein’s thoughts about how the zeitgeist affects culinary trends, the distinction between “organic in name” and “organic in spirit,” and her hopes for creating deeper cultural understanding through shared meals.

Nourishing Minds, Challenging Tastes

The award-winning journal Gastronomica celebrates food and culture with articles, literature, humor, and art selected to challenge and to entertain. Exploring food in all its incarnations, not just the meal on the plate, the journal invites readers to consider the full spectrum of food, from its least appetizing aspects to its joys and delights. This contrast, says Gastronomica editor-in-chief Darra Goldstein, brings out the full glory of food.

In The Gastronomica Reader, Goldstein has collected some of the best writing and art from the journal’s archives. In the book, we join a competitive eater on the road, glimpse the history of the spice trade through a pepper shaker, look at organic farming in Mexico and the battle over genetically modified food in Zambia, attend a fashion show in which all the clothes are made of food, explore the inextricable connections between food and family, memory, art and poetry, and much more.

In this new UC Press podcast, Goldstein talks to Chris Gondek about The Gastronomica Reader, why Gastronomica isn’t a typical food magazine, the cover image that drew objections from readers, and the food that brings back memories.

Listen to the podcast now:  

A Feast From Our Authors: Darra Goldstein

To celebrate good food, holiday cheer, and to welcome the New Year, we’re happy to present a feast of favorite recipes, as well as wine and champagne pairing ideas, from our authors. We’ll start today with something sweet: delectable orange-almond confections from Darra Goldstein, author of The Gastronomica Reader and The Georgian Feast, and Editor-In-Chief of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture. There’s lots more on the menu, all week long. Enjoy!

Darra_GoldsteinOrange Balls

I make batches of these luscious confections to give as house gifts throughout the holidays. Since they need to be made well in advance for the flavors to meld, they’re perfect for entertaining. During the dark days of December I welcome the bright orange flavor and burst of Vitamin C they provide. This recipe is adapted from Mary Taylor Simeti’s “Bitter Almonds.”

1 1/3 cups whole blanched almonds
1 cup sugar (plus more for sprinkling)
1/2 medium navel orange
1 tablespoon rum
1 teaspoon pure almond extract

Scrub the orange and wipe it dry, then cut it in half. Place the orange half, almonds, and 1 cup sugar in the bowl of a food processor and process until the almonds are ground medium-fine. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the rum and almond extract.

Sprinkle a wooden board or other work surface with sugar. Knead the dough lightly on the sugar and then divide it in half. Roll each half into a log about 1 1/4″ in diameter. Cut each log into 1/4″ pieces. Dip the cut sides in the sugar, then shape the pieces into balls by rolling them between your palm and the board. Coat the balls with additional sugar and leave them to dry for 3 hours.

Place the orange balls in decorative paper candy cups and store airtight for 3 to 4 days before serving. They will keep for several weeks.

Makes about 2 dozen balls.